I’ve been in Honolulu for almost six weeks. I’ve been swimming, stand-up-paddling, scuba diving, walking and boating. I have not been surfing. A true confession: I’ve been fear-full.
I got hurt twice on the surfboard my last few months living here and I’ve had recurring thoughts that it would happen again.
Today, I had a breakthrough! I booked a lesson and went out on my surfboard! It was magical! I started out slowly and on small waves. Then, as the minutes and waves progressed, my teacher had us paddle out further into the bigger waves. They were waist to head high, by Hawaiian’s measurements. They were beautiful and powerful and so FUN!! I felt the rush as the speed of the water took me and my fears disappeared.
I must confess: I was scared and timid. The voice in my head was very compelling. However, I am not a quitter. I couldn’t be here and see my birthday board one more day without getting on it.
Aloha,
Denise
